The Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage

Origins: The Casino Palace That Never Was

Rising eerily above the fragrant canopy of umbrella pines on the crest of Hristo Hill (Isa Tepesi, 164 meters elevation), the Prinkipo Greek Orthodox Orphanage (*Büyükada Rum Yetimhanesi*) is an engineering marvel. In the late 1890s, the Compagnie Internationale des Wagons-Lits—operators of the legendary Orient Express luxury train connecting Paris to Istanbul—conceived an audacious commercial project.

Seeking to attract high-rolling European royalty and aristocratic travelers who arrived on their luxury sleeper trains, Wagons-Lits planned an opulent resort and casino complex that would rival Monte Carlo and Baden-Baden. They commissioned the most distinguished architect in the Ottoman Empire: French-Levantine master Alexandre Vallaury.

Vallaury drew inspiration from Swiss-Alpine timber resorts and Russian grand estates, designing a breathtaking five-story timber edifice featuring 206 palatial guest rooms, grand ballrooms with sweeping parquetry dance floors, stained-glass salons, and classical loggia balconies overlooking the Sea of Marmara. Completed in 1898, the building was heralded across European architectural journals.

However, a fatal obstacle emerged: Ottoman Sultan Abdulhamid II, staunchly committed to Islamic moral governance and protective of imperial public order, adamantly refused to issue the necessary gaming and casino license. Deprived of its intended commercial purpose, the colossal empty timber palace was put up for sale.

A Sanctuary for 5,800 Children

In 1902, prominent Greek philanthropist Eleni Zarifi, wife of wealthy Ottoman Greek banker Georgios Zarifis, purchased the estate for 3,700 gold Ottoman liras. She donated the entire property to the Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople under Patriarch Joachim III, with the explicit covenant that it serve perpetually as a home, school, and vocational sanctuary for orphaned Greek children throughout the empire.

In 1903, Sultan Abdulhamid II officially sanctioned the institution, granting it an imperial firman and even donating 146 gold coins toward its operational endowment. For over six decades, the building became a self-sustaining miniature city:

• It housed modern dormitories, classrooms, library collections, and a chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas;
• It contained comprehensive vocational workshops teaching carpentry, tailoring, cobbling, and maritime mechanics to provide young graduates with self-sufficient careers;
• It cultivated on-site agricultural vegetable gardens, fruit orchards, and livestock pens on the surrounding hillsides.

Between 1903 and its abrupt closure in 1964, more than 5,800 orphaned children grew up within its timber walls, forming an unbreakable alumni community that still convenes annually in Istanbul and Athens.

Closure in 1964 & Europa Nostra Preservation

In 1964, amid severe geopolitical tensions over Cyprus between Turkey and Greece, the Turkish General Directorate of Foundations (*Vakıflar Genel Müdürlüğü*) ordered the immediate closure of the orphanage, citing theoretical fire hazards in the wooden structure. The remaining children were abruptly relocated to the Monastery of Saint Demetrios on the island, and the building was sealed.

Decades of bitter legal battles followed. In 1997, state authorities attempted to seize title to the property. However, in 2010, the European Court of Human Rights (ECHR) issued a landmark ruling ordering the Turkish government to return full ownership and property deeds to the Ecumenical Patriarchate, along with financial compensation for legal costs.

Decades of exposure to salt-laden marine air, heavy winter snowfalls, and a fire that damaged the central roof in 1980 have taken a devastating toll. In 2018, leading heritage organization Europa Nostra and the European Investment Bank designated the Prinkipo Orphanage as one of the 7 Most Endangered Heritage Sites in Europe. Emergency stabilization initiatives, digital 3D laser-scanning surveys, and international fundraising campaigns are currently underway under the leadership of the Patriarchate to preserve the building from structural collapse.

Visiting Hristo Hill: Trail & Safety Rules (2026)

Despite the internal closure, visiting the exterior grounds is one of Büyükada’s most awe-inspiring experiences. To reach the site:

1. The Pine Ridge Trail: From the Clock Tower harbor, walk south along Çankaya Caddesi and turn left up Kadıyoran Caddesi toward Hristo Hill. The paved road transitions into a peaceful unpaved forest trail shaded by red pines (*Pinus brutia*).
2. The Viewpoint: As you reach the crest of the hill, the massive 5-story timber facade emerges through the pine trees. Stand at the designated clearing along the fence line to appreciate its monumental scale—equal in length to a full-size ocean liner.
3. Hristo Monastery Neighbor: Just 200 meters west along the same ridge stands the historic Metamorphosis Monastery (Hristo Manastırı), founded in the Byzantine era and rebuilt in the nineteenth century, surrounded by a peaceful cemetery and tranquil garden.